Last month, Pitti Uomo 106 took over the streets of Florence, as men backed out their finest tailored suits, neckties, and loafers to attend the annual trade show. Designers, buyers, journalists, and fashion fans gathered for the four-day experience to explore the latest brands and collections.
French fashion designer Marine Serre was named guest designer for Pitti Uomo 106. Her show, titled “Sempre Legati,” embodied romance and liberation. Models graced the runway under the sunset at Villa di Maiano. The show also marked the debut of Serre’s first menswear collection. It featured a variety of upcycled pieces like a parka made out of hiking bags, and a coat covered in flowers made from silk scarves. Serre closed the show with 10 full white looks to spread a message of peace and love. She referred to this collection as her anniversary.
“It’s a collection where I took the most pleasure,” said Serre in a media scrum before the show.
Marine Serre’s presentation may have been the main attraction at Pitti Uomo 106, but it was only a piece of the experience. There were a number of brands we saw at the trade show that you should be putting on your radar.
Here are five of our favorites.
Buzigahill
Amongst the big names on the grounds of Pitti Uomo is the S|S Style showroom, which showcases fresh fashion talent. Buzigahill was the first brand to catch our attention.
Buzigahill is a Ugandan fashion brand founded by Bobby Kolade. The Kampala-based label blends fashion, art, and activism. Its first project, "Return To Sender," is about repurposing pre-worn garments and redistributing them back to the Global North.
Buzigahill stood out immediately because of the detailed construction of its pieces, vibrant colors being used, and the freshness the brand brought to Florence. Its unique approach easily stood out amongst the more traditional tailored suits and button-ups.
Tolo
By far one of the most exciting brands to discover was Tolo. Named after its founder Francesco Tolotta, Tolo is deeply rooted in slow fashion. Tolotta focuses on creating timeless garments. He started out as a painter. After moving to Florence, he dove into the world of fashion and design, while using his strengths as a painter to create rich pieces of clothing. For Pitti Uomo 106, Tolo presented a monochromatic green look using recycled polyester. The details on the elongated skirt and puffer jacket complete with a built-in backpack caught my attention. Tolo is still in its early stages as a brand, but the construction and quality proves that it has a bright future.
Domenico Orefice
Domencio Orefice felt like a glimpse into the future. If you appreciate minimal pieces that still feel extremely premium, this might be a brand for you. Domencio Orefice combines sportswear, innovation, and Italian craftsmanship to create true quality garments.
Its Pitti presentation featured a structured panel jacket with silver hardware, oversized black pants, and an oversized duffle bag. The best part about the pieces is that they feel like an elevated uniform. The unisex garments with intricate detailing made this brand feel like anyone could wear it, and look good doing so.
Permu
Permu was another brand that showcased its collection in the S|S Style Showroom. The menswear brand was established during the COVID-19 pandemic, and made its debut at London Fashion Week in 2022. The brand is masculine yet delicate, and focuses on innovative tailoring and craftsmanship.
Founder Pan Heyun referred to the collection as skin. Our skin is what screens and protects us, yet it is also what connects us to the outside world through touch. The collection presented at Pitti Uomo 106 was a reflection of that concept. “In my opinion, a garment is like the second skin of a human,” Heyun told Complex.
Permu showcased a sculptural liquid top featuring a pigment made from wood waste, and a deconstructed shirt that reflected the red under layer of the skin. The brand’s focus on sustainability was a bonus.
Denzil Patrick
London-based brand Denzil Patrick was another standout at Pitti 106. Designers Daniel Gayle and James Bosley have worked together to create a brand that elevates menswear, while focusing on sustainability. The modern silhouettes and eco-conscious approach to its designs are what make this brand exciting. The most interesting piece it showcased was a textured black and red jacket and short set that was made using recycled polyester in partnership with the Kering Material Innovation Lab. Denzil Patrick recently presented its Spring/Summer 2025 collection in London as well, which demonstrated the brand's range.